Friday, July 15, 2011

Pictures and Specs - Last Post

This is most likely my last post on this blog. I just wanted to wrap up a couple of lose ends.

First, if you'd like to see some better quality and additional  pictures, please go to Shutterfly:

http://bikingthenortherntier.shutterfly.com/pictures/41#112

Some folks might be interested in my touring bicycle components. So, here's a list of the major items:

- Gunnar Fastlane frame and fork
- Shimano PD-A530 Pedals
- CC Compact Brake Levers
- Shimano Deore XT RR DER 9-spd - Shimano Deore XT crank
- Hope Pro2 Rear and Front Hub Disc
- Thomson Seatpost
- Probike Headset Cartridge
- Specialized All Condition Tires 700 x 28
- Kalloy A-Head Road Stem
- Avid BB7 Disc Brakes
- Nitto Noodle Bar

If you have any questions about the bike, the guys at Crank Daddy's can help.

http://crankdaddys.com/

Other than a couple of flats and some minor brake adjustments, it was a trouble free ride. Total weight of the bike is about 27 pounds.

It was fun.

Mike





-

Monday, July 11, 2011

Lime Kiln Hill - Revisited

There's nothing like the anticipation of coming home to move the pedals a little faster. Even though temperatures were in the 90's, I still managed 13.28 mph for those last 109 miles.

My route through Louisville took me up Lime Kiln Hill. This hill isn't big, by Western states standards, but it is one of the bigger and steeper ones in the area. With my friend Dave, I've probably ridden up this hill 100 times in the last couple of years. Normally it's a grind, but this time it was pure joy.



A few miles later, I was almost home when I encountered my friends and neighbors, Sue and Paula. They gave me a hearty "welcome back" but didn't let on that there was a surprise awaiting me.



I've met lots of interesting, helpful and friendly people in my 41 days of bicycle travel, but above all my experiences served to heighten the value of good friends and neighbors. It's good to be home.

I'm going to upload photos to Shutterfly in the next day or two. These will be much higher quality than what you see here. For anyone interested in the mechanicals, I'll also post the component package on my bike.

***************
For those of you who like numbers (I love numbers), here are a few:

Total miles: 3075
Average miles ridden per day: 75
100+ mile days: 6
Most miles in one day: 130
Fewest miles in one day: 20
Total crank revolutions: about 885,000*
Flats: 2
Riding days: 41
Rest days: 2

* I figured cadence of 80, 25% coasting, and average of 12.5 miles per hour.




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Saturday, July 9, 2011

A Better Way Through Indianapolis

It's funny how things work out.

I started the day in Logansport and headed South on hiway 29. Winds were light, but more head than tail. Temperatures quickly rose and I had several Powerade stops. I have gotten to the point where a quart of Powerade is a typical stop. Fortunately, with the Burley, its no problem to keep a 2-3 qts in reserve.

In Michigantown, I finally got an Indiana map. I dreaded the idea of riding through Indianapolis and planned to take hiway 38 East and then take hiway 9 South past Indianapolis. Hiway 38 was just wonderful with almost no traffic. In Sheridan I stopped for another Powerade and banana break in one of the city parks. There was a Little League baseball game being played and so I took my time and watched a couple of innings. The home team put 6 runs on the board in the third inning, but the visitors were chipping away at the lead when I left.

Five miles out of Sheridan, hiway 38 was closed and I had to take a detour South on 31. It was about 2 p.m. and I was just about to make the turn back onto the 38. First though, it was time for some lunch: Taco Bell. While there, I met Dan, another cyclist. He asked me about my intended route and thought I could save several miles and avoid lots of traffic by taking Monon trail to downtown and then hiway 31 South. It so happened that the Monon trail began just a couple of blocks from the Taco Bell.

So off I went on the bike trail, saving miles and having a very pleasant ride. When I got downtown, it didn't take long to find hiway 31 South. This is a 6-lane urban hiway and for the first few miles the traffic flow made for challenging riding. It definitely not something I'd want to ride everyday. Nevertheless, after a while the traffic lightened and I was riding at a good pace. Still, I stopped twice for Powerade breaks. When you're riding in traffic, the most important thing is to be alert and have some power in your legs when you need it. The breaks really help.

So, if I hadn't gotten the map, I wouldn't have taken hiway 38, and if hiway 38 wasn't closed and rerouted onto 31, I wouldn't have stopped at the Taco Bell and met Dan and rode that wonderful city bike trail. Funny, in a nice way, how things work out.

The trip is winding down and while I'm looking forward to getting home, I'm also going to miss the daily mini-adventures.

Today I rode just over 8 hours and covered 105 miles. I'm just 33 miles shy of 3000 for the total trip.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Franklin, IN

Friday, July 8, 2011

Maps

I got out early in hopes of beating the heat and getting at least 100 miles in. Well, I beat the heat for a while and with some effort, I put on 109 miles. I'm pretty sure I getting closer to Louisville, but without a map I'm not sure how much closer.

I figured I could get a map near the Michigan-Indiana border. I stopped in at least 6 gas stations/convenience stores, and none had an Indiana map. So I asked for directions and gradually made my way down to Logansport. I asked around for a map here too, but no luck. So, I'm going to go to Google and write down some directions for the next 100 miles.

At about 4 p.m. I stopped for a late lunch at the Kibitzer Tavern and Restaurant in Kewanna. I had a nice conversation with Bob and Jane, and the owner Gloria. I learned a little bit about the corn and soybean business (it's good) and enjoyed a great burger. I told them about my bicycle travels. When I was ready to leave, Gloria generously bought my lunch. Thirty-nine days of pedaling and there are still some new experiences and pleasant surprises.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:E Market St, Logansport, IN

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Route Change

It was a great day for a ride. Winds were light, temps moderate, and traffic on the roads was light. Most of the day was spent on country road A2. From Grand Haven to Benton Harbor, I had either a bike lane, wide shoulder or so little traffic I could ride on the roadway.

Blueberries and raspberries are in season and I would have liked to buy a few quarts to enjoy while traveling. Unfortunately, transporting soft fruit on a bicycle really doesn't work very well. So, I'll just have to plan on getting some pie or pancakes with fresh berries along the way.

This West side of Michigan is very pleasant to travel through. Between the beaches, the lakeside tourist communities, the aforementioned seasonal fruit, and great roads, it is ideal touring country. I wouldn't mind coming up and going through this area again, just at a slower pace.

Today's ride was uneventful, save for one interaction. I'm still asking for directions (lousy map), and I stopped a woman just getting into her car to ask for directions to Saugatauk. She was very nice and carefully explained the best route to take. Off I went. A couple of miles later, I see her just ahead of me, waving me down. She explained that she made a small mistake in her directions and wanted to correct them. How many people would do that? BTW - She works for McDonald's. I guess she really understands the concept of service. McD's is lucky to have her.

I rode 85 miles today. Total miles ridden is now up to 2750.

Tomorrow I'll cross over into Indiana. As I have explained to several people, I've decided to change my route. Instead of continuing the Northern Tier route to Bar Harbor, ME, I'm going to ride South back to Louisville, KY. The miles are piling up and while I'm sure I could finish the coast to coast ride, there's little incentive to continue East. By riding back to LVLL, I'll save an airfare and the hassle of shipping the bike. Maybe I ride the Eastern half of the Northern Tier next year.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Stevensville, MI

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Beaches

Yesterday, the fellow bicyclist I met on the Badger suggested that I alter my route. Instead of going inland as specified on the ACA map, he suggested I hug the shoreline of Western Michigan. I wasn't particularly enthused about the ACA route since it didn't have many lodging and camping options, and so early this morning I bought a Michigan map and set off to follow the shoreline.

Unfortunately the map I bought doesn't have much detail and the county roads either weren't shown or weren't labeled. So, I just picked roads that had "South" in the direction and hoped for the best. I'd ask for directions every once in a while, but for the most part my intuition was right.

This part of Michigan is well known for its sand dunes along the beach. I didn't take the time to explore them, but lots of other people do. There are a number of shops that offer dune buggy rentals or just tours.



I rode into Muskegon at about 5 p.m. and was tempted to try to make it down to Holland, but since I don't have a campground/motel listing, I thought it best find a campground early.

I'm spending the night at the Grand Haven State Park, right on the beach. If you just looked at the setting you might guess I'm on a California beach.



For dinner, I walked into town and had a hot dog and burrito at Butch's Beach Burritos. Doesn't this look like something you'd find along Highway 1? Even the hot dogs are served with hot sauce. They put the wiener in a bun, add the toppings and then roll it in a burrito.



I got back to my campsite just as the sun was starting to go down.



My neighbors at the campground noticed my minimalist approach to camping and offered to share their dinner with me. Even though I just ate, I couldn't turn down a friendly invitation for dinner (always need to fuel the pedaling engine) and conversation. Jeff and Mary and their family are here from Ottumwa, Iowa.


This campground is mostly big trailers and RVs. Many people brought their bikes. It occurred to me that while other people used their trailers to bring their bikes here, I used my bike to bring my trailer here.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Grand Haven, MI

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Across the Lake

I enjoyed a second day off yesterday. It was a quiet day capped off with a great barbecue and lots of friendly conversation. "Yes John, I'd like mine cooked on both sides." :)



This morning Ken and I got up at 6:00 a.m. and we were on the road 45 minutes later. Ken was the tour guide up to Port Washington. That was very helpful because the Google maps are so confusing. From there, the route was much easier to follow and I was in Manitowoc shortly after noon, ready for the trip across the lake.



The clean bike, fresh legs, and a slight tailwind gave me an average speed of 13.5 mph. That's better than my typical day. However, when I see the riders in the Tour de France running 40+ mph, I can't do too much chest pounding.

The Badger is a coal-fired steam engine auto transport ferry. Cost for the bike was just $6, but the cost for me was about $70. So, this wasn't a bargain, but I figured it was a one-time event for me. It is due to be retired in 2014 due to the environmental impact of the coal fired engine, so if I didn't do it now...

Here's the view as we leave WI..



and the view coming in to Ludington:



On the crossing I talked to another tourer. Dave rode his road bike from San Francisco to Michigan. He has a compact double crank with STI shifters. Everything went well from a mechanical standpoint up until a couple of days ago. For reasons unknown, his rear derailleur broke and the rear wheel locked up. He was fortunate to be able to come to a safe stop and lucky to be close to a bike shop that could make the repairs. Once again, I think the components on my bike are working very well. I'm glad we went with the bar end shifters and the mountain bike drivetrain.

The crossing took about 3 1/2 hours and with the time change and disembarking, it was nearly 7 p.m. by the time I got back on the bike. So Ludington is my overnight home.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Ludington, MI

Monday, July 4, 2011

A Day Off

That was different: a full day without any riding. Instead, Ken and I went down to Crank Daddy's where we had Mike make a couple of minor adjustments on the bike and I bought a new pair of bike shorts. I'm looking forward to a well padded ride in the coming days.

http://crankdaddys.com

Early in the evening, we drove down to Milwaukee and, with some of Ken's friends, enjoyed dinner on the river at John Hawk's. A liverwurst sandwich with a cold beer is taste treat on a warm summer evening. The company of three lovely ladies made the meal just that much more pleasant.


Afterwards, we walked about 10 blocks down to the lakefront, set up the folding chairs, and the hour-long fireworks display began. I don't know how many people witnessed the show, but with Milwaukee's Summerfest music festival going on at the same time, it had to be hundreds of thousands.

This is the Calatrava at the Milwaukee Art Museum, shortly before the fireworks began.


..and another view during the show.



Today is another day of rest and then it is back on the road. I ride up to Manitowoc tomorrow and then take the ferry over to Ludington, MI. The legs are feeling stronger already. I'm going to send my cold weather clothing home via USPS and that'll reduce my load and maybe improve my speed, especially up the hills.

I mentioned Lake Winnebago yesterday. They have a bike race/ride around the lake on August 21. It's 90 miles and I have heard great things about the route and support. Dave.. you up for this one?

http://www.midwestsportsevents.com/racethelake.html


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Cedarburg, WI

Saturday, July 2, 2011

In the Burg

Nice NW wind helped me achieve a nearly 14 mile per hour average and I arrived at my brother Ken's house at about 5 p.m. Total miles thus far: 2513.

The ride down from Kaukauna took me past Lake Winnebago. This is the largest lake within the borders of WI and in stormy weather can get pretty rough. That was not the case today however. On this hot day, it looked invitingly cool.




I'll spend the next couple of days here before resuming my journey. Right now Ken is cooking and I'm ready to do some eatin'. This is Ken's Caribbean Calypso Pasta:



Pasta: what every biker loves!


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Warwick Square,Cedarburg,United States

Heat, Humidity, and Headwinds

Every day brings new challenges. While it has been shorts and jersey weather for several days, it hasn't been sweating hot. Today that changed. When I stopped for a late afternoon snack, the temperature was 92 degrees and the heat index was over 100. The forecast for winds from the South at 10-20 mph was spot on. The heat, humidity, and headwinds combined to take the fun out of riding. I was frequently on the drops just to reduce the wind resistance.

Nevertheless, by 6 p.m. I had 75 miles in. I was exhausted, but pleased that I met my goal of at least 70 miles. I took frequent breaks, drank over a gallon of Powerade, and although the heat sapped my appetite, I made it a point to eat a substantial breakfast and lunch.

Tomorrow the winds are expected to be from the NW and temps should drop about 10 degrees. Goodie.




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Kaukana, WI

Thursday, June 30, 2011

Limburger Cheese

Yesterday's rest helped. I rode just over 94 miles today and even though that was 8 hours of riding time, the legs were still fairly strong at the end of the day.

Winds were from the South and my ride took me basically East. That's still a relative headwind, but manageable. After dinner in Antigo, the route turned South, but by that time the winds had diminished somewhat and I made good time over the course of about 25 miles to Tilleda.

County road D, from Bowler to Tilleda, is only about 5 miles long, but makes for a special ride. It goes through a very dense forest that seems like it is right out of a fairly tale. With pine trees providing a canopy, the road is dark, there's next to no traffic, and you wouldn't be surprised to see Henzel and Gretel wandering through the woods. It's roads like these that make me forget about the destination and just enjoy the experience.

Tilleda is an old logging town that has long since seen its better days. However the campground is very nice: right along the river, showers, and a camp store and even WiFI. I talked at length with Dennis, the property manager, and perhaps because riding gives me a perpetual appetite, the conversation turned to food. Dennis' favorite: Limburger cheese, on any kind of bread, with a slice of raw Vidalia onion on top. That's not food to make friends with, but I'm going to give it a try sometime.

Tomorrow winds are once again expected to be from the South, only stronger. Perhaps if I get myself on the road early enough, I'll be able to take advantage of some calmer conditions. I plan to be in Cedarburg late on Saturday.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Tilleda, WI

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

No, Not That Way

Tuesday morning, before leaving Cumberland, I did my laundry. It was a late start, but I've come to the conclusion that bike touring is just mobile living. There are days when you focus on riding and other days when you have to engage in maintenance activities like laundry, cleaning and adjusting the bike, and resupplying your groceries.

I rode up to Birchwood and it was really a nice touring ride. The pace didn't matter; I was enjoying the scenery. I didn't have a destination planned for the day, figuring that there were enough small towns and lots of campgrounds along the route that I could stop when I was ready to stop.

The back roads in WI are really great for bicycling. There's very little traffic and most of the roads are in excellent condition. Sure, there are some hills, but they can be climbed in minutes, rather than hours as in Washington and Montana.



Out of Birchwood, I took County F as per the ACA directions. About 5 miles later, I still hadn't seen the lake that F was supposed to go around. The "County F South" sign solved the mystery. I had turned right onto F when I should have turned left.

Backtracking on a bicycle is no fun and I was hoping that I'd simply be able to alter my course and get back on track after a few miles. No, I was actually closer to Hiway 8 (where I had been on Monday afternoon).

It was time to come up with a new route; a plan B. The original route took me further North before turning South. Perhaps the best thing to do was to just cut across the state and reconnect with the ACA route well South of the Conover turnoff. That would actually save me 100 miles or so and given the forecast for Southerly winds, it would make the ride easier. (I spend more time checking wind direction than most sailors.)

So, off I went, continuing on County F South. The only problem with the new route was the fact that my WI map didn't show motels and campsites. So I asked the locals in Bruce for help and they said there would be campsites on Hiway 27, just South of Ladysmith and about 12 miles away. Perfect.

Well, there were no campsites and no motels once I got out of Ladysmith. The nearest town of any size was 30 miles away and I already had ridden 75 miles and it was after 6 p.m. I passed a bar/restaurant and behind it was a grassy area and a parked RV. Maybe they offered camping?

I went in and asked.

"Sure, you can camp here; free."

"Showers and restrooms?"

"No showers, but you can use the restrooms as long as the bar is open."

This wasn't the ideal situation, but I've learned to accept less than ideal as opposed to "no deal" at all. At least there was a restaurant and I'd be able to get some dinner.

Even though it was dinner time, the place was virtually empty and by the time I set up the tent, changed, and came back, I was the only customer.

I sat at the bar, ordered a draft and asked for the menu. The bartender, mother of the owner, said the food was very good, but the cook had left to go play volleyball.

"He should be back in about an hour."

"Fine, its early and I can wait. How about another draft?"

By 8:30 there was still no cook and I figured his heart would not be into cooking even if he did show up now. So I returned to my tent and ate a couple of fruit bars, some crackers and called it a day. During the night I heard lots of barking and howling. I hoped the noise came from dogs and not coyotes. Today I found out there are lots of black bears in the area. It was probably better that I did not know this last night.

When camping, I usually get an early start and today followed form. By 7 a.m. I was riding. I figured there there had to be a c-store somewhere nearby where I could get some breakfast. Again, I was wrong. Thirty miles into the day I came to a rest area and figured I could at least wash up and eat the rest of my reserve food. Sardines, cheese, peanut butter, a couple of fruit bars and a banana is the breakfast of champion riders.

I passed through one small unincorporated town and had a sort of "Twilight Zone" moment. There was a school and next to it was a cemetery. There was only one headstone in it, and while I don't pay much attention to cemeteries, I couldn't help but notice the name on this single headstone: Martin. The wrong turn, change in route, the only customer in a restaurant, and now this headstone: kind of creepy, don't you think?

******

Even though the roads are better and the winds aren't trying to push me backwards, I notice that my energy level is down. Average speed is slipping and the legs just don't have the push they had early on. The hills require lower gears and I notice the cracks in the road just seem to be more jarring. Today is my 32nd consecutive day of riding and I'm averaging 70 miles per day. Most riders take a day off every 7-10 days, but riding alone, I don't find doing nothing for a day particularly appealing. So, I push on.

Today I had planned to ride to Merrill, about 90 miles altogether. By the time I got to Medford however, my legs emphatically told me that they weren't going to do another 30 miles. Better to get some rest for these tired legs, I figure, and though it was only 1:30 I checked into the Medford Inn. Medford has real food and with a good night's sleep, I'm sure I'll be in better shape tomorrow.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Medford, WI

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Hello Cheeseheads

I've crossed the border into WI and with the benefit of a tailwind, I put on 85 miles yesterday.

About 20 miles into the ride, I reconnected with Regan Pourchots and his group. I first rode with them near the Washington-Idaho border. They have been pushing hard the last couple of days, putting in 100+ miles each day. They are anxious to get home to Stevens Point and and are riding directly across the state on Hiway 8. They expect to be home late Tuesday.



My route is less direct, as I ride NE to Conover in the North center of WI and then drop down and make the run to Cedarburg.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Cumberland, WI

Sunday, June 26, 2011

2000 Miles

I got out of that overpriced campground at about 8 a.m. and headed to Rice, MN for some breakfast. A local cafe had an AYCE breakfast buffet for $7.95 and I couldn't pass that up. I'm sure they didn't make any money on me as I gobbled up eggs, sausage, waffles, pancakes, strawberry and blueberry compote, and fresh fruit.

Once again, winds were out of the SE, but it was cool and a good day for riding. My goal was Dalbo and I got here so early that I thought I should continue riding for a couple more hours. However, camping and lodging is scarce in the next 40 miles and besides, if I continued, I'd miss the Cyclists' Bunkhouse.

The Cyclists Bunkhouse is well known by riders on the Northern Tier. The owner, Donn Olson, has set up a free bunkhouse for touring cyclists.


Besides offering a place to sleep and get out of the weather, the Bunkhouse has food and cooking appliances. Donn only asks for a contribution for any food that is consumed ($3 for a pizza, 25 cents for a soft drink, etc.) It even has Wi-Fi.



I'm in the Bunkhouse by myself right now, but it is still early and so perhaps some other riders will show up later.

As the title implies, I saw 2000 miles on the odometer today. Today is my 29th day on the road and I'm averaging 70 miles per day. Tomorrow the winds are supposed to shift to the NW and I plan to cross the WI border.

Since this has been an early stop today, let me comment on some things that have worked and other things that I wish I had thought of:

1) Burley Nomad: The trailer has worked very well. It is not watertight, but since I put everything in plastic bags, everything has stayed dry. The low center of gravity and swivel connector on the hitch makes riding the bike feel no different than if I were riding without the trailer. The only annoyance is that the axel width sometimes makes it impossible to avoid the rumble ruts that are on the shoulders of many hiways. If the shoulder is too narrow, I ride on the roadway and just keep an eye out for traffic in my mirror.

2) Helmet Mirror: I'm glad I bought this several hundred miles ago. It's now easy to look back and check for traffic.

3) Business Cards: I wish I would have made up some business cards with my name and blog address on it. Many people have expressed interest in my ride and it would be nice to be able to give them a card with the blog address and some other information.

4) Mobile Hot Spot: I got this thinking that wi-fi might be hard to access, especially in some of the small towns. It turns out that wi-fi is almost everywhere. While the Hot Spot has been nice to have in city campgrounds, the benefit does not justify the cost.

5) Tires: Those Western roads chew up tires. Fortunately, I've not been in a situation where I needed a new tire (just tubes). However, keeping an extra one on the bike adds to peace of mind.

6) Seat-Shorts. I can't decide whether sore, tired legs or a sore butt is the primary reason to call it a day. There's not much I can do about tired legs; butt comfort is another story. My shorts are kinda old and so the padding doesn't pad so well anymore. I should have started with new shorts. As it is, I'm "double-shorting" on some days and that helps. I'm not sure if a different seat would be any better; my butt is just not used to riding 6+ hours everyday.

7) Gearing. I'm not sure of what the gear inches are on the bike, but they are pretty low. I can pedal with a good strong cadence down to about 3.5 mph and max is about 30 mph. While I used the small ring extensively in the mountains, I've also used it for some of the short steep hills. I've talked to some bikers who occasionally walk their bikes up hills. I've never had to do that with this gearing. I like it!

That's it for now.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Dalbo, MN

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Mississippi River

It was nice day for a ride. I rode the Cental Lakes and Lake Wobegon trails all day. Winds were out of the SE, but they were light and much of the trail was wind protected by trees and brush. Here's the view of the trail, just as I'm entering Holdingford.



And the trail behind me...


With the pleasant weather, I decided tonight would be a camping night. I decided on the Two Rivers campground since it was the only one available for another 30 miles. It is amazing how the price of a camp space can vary. Two nights ago, I camped at Tony's for the price of $3. Tonight I'm paying $30. Sure, this property has a pool and lots of other amenities, but for the most part I can't use them. I guess the price reflects to proximity to the Twin Cities: it's about a 90 minute drive.

One nice thing about the campground is the location: right at the confluence of the Platte and Mississippi Rivers. I think of the Mississippi as a wide, slow moving river. Well, it's pretty narrow and fast here.



Tomorrow its on to Dalbo. Its only about a 60 mile ride, but considering that I've ridden about 245 miles in the last 3 days, I deserve an easy day.




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Royalton, MN

Recumbent Heaven

I got off to a late start today. Between sleeping in and having a nice conversation with Tony, I didn't get myself on the road until 10 a.m.

In Pelican Rapids, I noticed a group of bicyclists (all recumbents, 3 bikes and 2 trikes) getting ready to leave a motel and naturally I stopped to talk to them. They were from a small town outside of Wisconsin Dells and were working their way West. Those mountain passes will be slow going on recumbents.

They suggested I alter my route and take advantage of a bike path from Fergus Falls to Bowlus, a distance of about 100 miles. (Actually the path is 180+ miles, but only the first 100 miles paralleled my intended route.)



So I did and I could see why recumbent riders like it. The grade is never more than 1 or 2% and the asphalt is in great condition. There is lots of green and countless lakes on the route. Not having to check for passing cars or stay on the shoulder makes for a very relaxed ride and gives you the opportunity to really enjoy the scenery. (See CentralLakesTrail.com for the complete route.)

This evening I had dinner at nearby restaurant and struck up a conversation with Jay. Jay was in town with his daughter to visit the local university, where his daughter hopes to study French. Jay also told me that he had suffered a stroke at the age of 38 and spent the last several years working to recovery his physical and speech capabilities. When I told him I was on a long distance bike tour, he mentioned that he'd like to complete a bike tour from Duluth to the Twin Cities; sort of a bucket-list item. I suggested a recumbent trike, as I had seen earlier in the day, might be the way to achieve his goal. I hope he goes for it; it would be a great way to confirm his recovery.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Alexandria, MN

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Happy Birthday Ann

It was a good day for riding. Winds were either cross or tail, temps were in the low 70's, traffic was light and there was NO RAIN. I managed 85 miles at just over 12 mph. Total mileage for the trip is now over 1800.

Just outside of Fargo, I caught up to a local cyclist. Ann was just out for a fun ride on her Specialized Sequoia. We rode together for about 12 miles and in the course of our conversation, I learned that she was celebrating her 67th birthday. That was cause for celebration and so at her turnaround point in Sabin, MN I bought her an ice cream cone at the General Store. (BTW.. this is a great store. They have over 200 different brands/flavors of bottled soda.)



Ann is a regular rider. In fact when she was 60, she completely the Southern Tier route with a group of women. Just last week she rode 92 miles with a friend. She rides with a bad hip that does not allow her to swing her leg up and over the crossbar. She basically has to lay the bike down to either get on or off it.

I'm about 40 miles into Minnesota. There are countless lakes on this route and lots of pine and hardwood trees to break up the landscape. There are also some hills: not big, but steep enough to move to the small chainring.

Tonight I'm camping on the shore of Lake Ida at Tony's Campground. Its pretty quiet. Tony said they had ice on the lake until early May and the thus far, tourists have been scarce this season.








- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Cormorant, MN

Minnesota - Here I Come

Once again, winds were from the North. However they are gradually swinging around to the Northwest. My 13 mile to the East to begin the day was at about 9.5 mph. Then the road turned South and it was easy to maintain a 15+ mph pace.

I decided to stop in Arthur (60 miles), rather than trying to push through another 34 miles into Fargo. This was probably a good decision. I talked to some bicyclists coming from Fargo and they reported that an overpass on Interstate 29 was shut down for repairs. I might have been able to cross it, but the recent rains have made it a mud pit.

So, tomorrow I backtrack about 4 miles and take an alternate route to Fargo and then on to Minnesota. Weather is supposed to be clear and sunny the next couple of days. That'll be a nice change.

I'm camping behind a Methodist Church. One of the people I met in Arthur suggested it would be better than the park. Pastor Miller said I could use the facilities in the church... definitely better than the park.

Respect for personal property is expected in North Dakota. The other day I was walking through a parking lot and noticed a nice Mustang convertible with the top down. I glanced at the interior and noticed the keys in the ignition. Somebody forgot them, I assumed. Then I looked in a Ford pickup parked behind it and again, the keys were in the ignition. I doubt I could ever used to walking away from my car with the keys still in the ignition.

Oops, I forgot - Here's a link to the blog for the other couple I met yesterday.

http://brucedana3.wordpress.com

Thursday Update: I'm in Fargo and got my Hotspot working again. The backtracking turned out to be a good idea. I had an easy 34 mile ride with very little traffic and a great smooth road. Minnesota is just a few miles away.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Arthur, ND

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Strange Bird

It was yet another rainy and windy day here in ND. I was on the road at about 9 a.m. and with a NE wind of 15+ mph I averaged just over 10 mph while headed East. At the 40 mile mark, the road turned South and my speed was up to a steady 15. The last 9 miles however were to the East once again and now the wind picked up and so did the rain. By the time I got to Cooperstown, my hands were so cold my fingers refused to follow my brain's command. When I stopped, I asked someone to help me take off my helmet; I couldn't feel the snaps.

It wasn't all about pedaling today though. Much of ND is flooded and I went through some areas with lakes that weren't on the map. I coasted down one hill to a lake and noticed some large white birds. Most flew off as I approached, but I got a picture of one on the lake.



It may be a little hard to make out, but that is a pelican. I never thought I'd see a pelican this far North, but the locals tell me that they are seeing a number of new species of waterfowl since this multi-year wet spell began.

For lunch I stopped in a bar in Pekin for coffee and sandwich. It was pretty quiet, until Caroline walked in. Caroline has been bike touring for years. In fact while in college in 1978, she and her husband rode Schwinn 10-speeds from Minnesota to NYC. No great feat? She was pregnant with twins.



Real biking enthusiasts, her husband gave her titanium for their 25th wedding anniversary.. a titanium road bike.

Dinner tonight was all-you-can eat pizza. I met two bike touring couples, one older and one younger. The younger couple, Dean and Meredith have a blog and the name says it all:

http://honeymoononabike.blogspot.com


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Cooperstown, ND

Monday, June 20, 2011

The Entrepreneurial Spirit Lives

I left Minnewauken at about 9 this morning. Overcast skies, wind from the Southeast, and a forecast of rain made my goal of another 60 miles unrealistic. I figured that some miles were better than none and so I pedaled the 21 miles to the only other town with camping/lodging on my route: Sheyenne.

I had planned to camp, but the locals told me that the public school had been converted to a motel of sorts. Sheyenne and another nearby town decided to merge enrollment and that left this modern building vacant. Some entrepreneurial folks decided to turn in it into a motel. Here's my room.. a converted classroom:


The whiteboads and blackboards and that big wall clock we all remember from our school days are here too.


Although there are 4 beds in the room, I have it to myself. There's a TV, refrigerator, and even Wi-Fi. Down the hall there's the old home ec kitchen and so I can cook too. For exercise (as if I need some), I can go shoot hoops in the gym. Price: $40.

This place is not yet listed on the Adventure Cycling Association map. So, if you want to spend the night in Sheyenne, stop at Rindy's Bar for directions. If you're just passing through, lunch is served at the Roadkill Cafe on Tues and Thurs from 11 - 2. The cafe is located inside the taxidermy shop. You can't miss it.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Sheyenne, ND

The Wind Always Blows in ND

Sixty miles into the wind was a challenge, but I made it. I decided not to fight it, instead just trying to maintain a steady cadence. My average was just under 10 mph.

I arrived in Minnewauken at about 5 p.m. and couldn't find a place to stay. I flagged down a resident and he sent me out to "Reel Em In." I am the first customer in this small office building that has been converted to a hostel. Its pretty nice and I have the place to myself tonight.



On the way here I met a group of riders coming from Bar Harbor. They had a sag wagon, and the wind at their backs, and so their pace was considerably faster. Nevertheless, they weren't traveling any further today than I was.

By the time I got to Minnewauken there was no place open to get food. So I ate everything in my reserve pack (cheese, sardines, trail mix, and nutri-grain bars. This morning I went to the only grocery in town and resupplied. Prices were very high and the selection was limited.

Minnewauken, like many other small rural towns, is gradually dying. Farms are getting bigger and it takes fewer people to operate them. Bigger communities have chain stores with much greater variety and lower prices. So, the few people who remain in these small towns drive the 25+ miles to the bigger towns to do their shopping. The small grocery stores like the one I visited are in a death spiral: less traffic, less product to sell, fewer reasons to shop there.







- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Minnewauken, ND

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Heading to Fargo

The winds shifted to the Southwest and I was able to get in 90 miles today. Most of it was on hiway 2, but East of Minot traffic was very light and hills were few.

This area has experienced flooding over the past couple of weeks and had I come through a few days earlier, the water on the roads might have been too deep to ride through. I only had to ride through 1/2 inch of water, but you can see that this creek had gone well over its banks.



Over the next few days my route heads to the Southeast and Fargo, ND. Unfortunately the winds are shifting to the Southeast tomorrow and will be from an Easterly direction Monday and Tuesday. I'd like to get to Minnewaukan tomorrow, but that is 60 miles away; a major challenge in the wind.

So far I've ridden about 1500 miles. I find that actual riding time on a good day is about 6 1/2 hours. I can do more, but speed drops off and the fun factor evaporates.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Rugby, ND

Friday, June 17, 2011

The Wind in My Face

I didn't make it to Minot today. In fact, I rode just 32 miles. I started at 8 a.m. with rain and a brisk breeze coming out of the Southeast. The rain stopped after about an hour, but the wind picked up to 20-25 mph.

Normally I ride about 15 miles and take a 5 minute water break and then at 30 miles get something to eat. Today my first break was at 10 miles and then I took another short break every 3-4 miles thereafter. My average was just 8 mph and it was a miserable ride. I never got cold or really wet, but the wind was just beating me up and by the time I got to Berthold, I was ready to call it a day.

I asked where the town park was (free camping) and I was directed to an area just beyond the High School. As I passed the HS, I noticed a bunch of bikes and someone waved to me come on over. Peggy, the HS principal, said there was a local bike tour and that they were spending the night in the HS gym.

Peggy introduced me to the group leaders (having a beer at a local bar) and they said I was welcome to stay with them. So that's where I am right now: camping in the HS gym.

The ride is called Bike the Border and it is held every year, the 3rd weekend in June. Here's a link to their site:

http://biketheborder.com/

I mentioned that I needed a new tire. It turns out that the guy who runs the best bike shop in Minot was supporting Bike the Border. He had a full truck of supplies and $72 later I had a new rear tire, 2 new tubes and a couple of minor adjustments.

So even with the wind, it was a pretty good day.



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Berthold, ND

Hospitality, Trust, and Hiway 2

On Tuesday, I met a cyclist heading West. We shared the usual "where ya, goin? how many miles per day?, etc." I knew that I'd be going into oil boom country and so ask him for camping and lodging advice. He confirmed that space would be limited for the next 200 miles or so. He said he had camped in a bicyclist's backyard in Williston and he gave me her (Faye) phone number.

Yesterday I rode 130 miles and made it Williston. Even with the tailwind, I was exhausted. About half-way there I called Faye and asked if I could camp there. "No problem" was her response. I got there at about 7 p.m. and Faye said I could camp in the back yard, or since rain was expected, just sleep in her finished basement. That sounded great. She even offered the use of her shower.

I got some dinner at a local FF place and came back to her house. She offered me some rhubarb pie and freshly made brownies. I felt sort of guilty accepting her generosity, but enjoyed the treats nevertheless.

This morning I got up and joined Faye for breakfast. She had packaged the rest of the brownies, some banana bread, and some candy for me to take along. At just after 8, she said she had to go to work. I hadn't finished packing yet. "Help yourself to some more coffee and then leave when you are ready," she said; and off to work she went leaving me in her house alone.

As a complete stranger, I have never experienced such a level of trust and hospitality. It was quite amazing.

When I get to WI, I'm going to pick up a bicycle bell and some gloves and send them to her.

Faye also gave me some alternate directions to Minot, ND. She said the ACA map took me on a road with no shoulders and heavy truck traffic. Hiway 2 was the best choice.

For the first 10 miles, hiway 2 had 10 foot paved shoulders and though I was going into the wind, it was a relatively stress-free ride. Then the shoulder turned to packed sand... for the next 20 miles. My narrow tires and the previous night's rain dropped my speed to 7 mph. I didn't see how I could go another 40 miles in these conditions. Fortunately the paved shoulder reappeared just about the time I began wondering if I should ask someone for a ride.

Tomorrow I have a 60 mile ride to Minot. I hope to get a new back tire there. These Western roads have worn off nearly all the tread and while I might be able to get another 500 miles out of it, I figure it is better to buy a tire when you can. :)


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Stanley, ND

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

From Sunburn to Shivers

For the last two days I've been riding through the flatlands of central and Eastern Montana. The wind has been consistently from the West and so my pace has been fairly brisk. Today I averaged over 15 mph for the 85 miles. I've stopped several times to reapply sunscreen and riding in just shorts and a jersey has been a nice change from the "bundle up" that I've been wearing.

With the tailwind and late sunset, I could have ridden further today, but Nashua was the last camp site for 50 miles and I didn't think I had the legs for that much more. In addition, just as I pulled into Nashua, the sky darkened and the temperature must have dropped 15 degrees.



So, I decided to camp on the grounds next to the civic center. There's a pavilion, restrooms and a shower... and no cost. People here, (and on the whole trip,) have been very friendly and helpful. They suggested that if the weather gets real bad, I can just move my sleeping bag into the building that houses the restrooms. In fact, I'm in the building as I type this.

I'm going to be on Hiway 2 for several days. It's a good road, if somewhat boring.


Montana is getting more rain than usual. In fact, they are already at their annual average. What looks like a lake in the photo above is actually just standing water from the rains.

Cross-country bike touring is no big deal here. When I tell people where I've been and where I'm going, it doesn't get much of a reaction. Of course not everyone tours on bikes. I met these two fellows who were driving from Minnesota to Alaska in their Model A's. They seemed like a modern day "Laurel and Hardy."



Eastern Montana and North Dakota are experiencing an oil boom and motel rooms and campsites are said to be at a premium. I'm anticipating some long rides the next couple of days, in an effort to bypass most of the high priced lodging. I hope the weather warms and clears. We'll see...

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Nashua, MT

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Flat #2

The day started fine, but at my 25 mile break, I came out of the c-store to find the rear tire flat. It was a tiny hole, seemingly caused by a small sharp rock.

No problem; I had 3 extra tubes I bought after my first flat. Hmmm.. these tubes are far too big. So I got out the patch kit and patched the tube. Havre has a bike shop and so I'll hopefully get some correct sized tubes tomorrow.

I'm starting to see more bicycle tourists. Besides the 3 I met yesterday in Chester, I also talked to 3 others West bound.

Today I played tortoise and hare with 2 women who were going to N. Dakota. They had no camping gear; just planned to stay in motels. Their pace was pretty slow and they were casual riders, who didn't train for their trip. It goes to show that bike touring is more a matter of planning and commitment rather than physical capability.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Havre, MT

Nice to Meet You, Mr. Tailwind

I'm now in the flatlands of MT. On the road at 8 a.m., I immediately began to enjoy a 15-20 mph tailwind and an overall decline in elevation. Top speed was 34 mph (downhill) and for some flat stretches, I was running 18 mph without much effort.

Here's how it looked behind me, about 25 miles East of East Glacier:



Hiway 2 parallels the rail line and though there are some dips and rises, the gradation is moderate. There's little traffic, and most of it is very bike courteous. The shoulders are very wide; in some sections 8 feet. Altogether it made for a pleasant 112 mile day.

Cold in the morning, but gradually warming, showers threatened in the early afternoon. I could see them in the distance and hoped they would move to the South.



I did get a few drops, but nothing major.

I'm camping in the Chester City Park along with 3 other cyclists, all headed West. They turned in early, giving me time reflect on the day and enjoy a Leinenkugel's and some chips before turning in as well.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Chester, MT

Saturday, June 11, 2011

The Last Pass

I started in West Glacier and ended in East Glacier, a distance of about 60 miles.

Last night I stayed at the Lake Five Resort and spent a couple of hours with Ron, the proprietor. At 60 years of age, he never lost the 1960's-70's outlook. He fasts once a year, makes a great vegetable soup (which he shared with me), skis telemark style, and loves classic FM rock. He was fun to talk to.




My ride on hiway 2 took me up the last major pass: Marias. I climbed about 1700 ft in 17 miles, and so it wasn't bad.






Since this is the c-divide, it's basically all down hill from here. :)

I couple of days ago, I bought a helmet mirror and gradually have learned to use it. With the narrow and sandy shoulders on hiway 2, it was a great help. I was able to stay on the road and still have time to move to the shoulder when traffic approached from behind.

I'm camping tonight at a little RV park and here I met 10 college students talking a class while bike touring. They are studying resource sustainability by visiting various sites such as coal mines, wind farms, etc. We had some very interesting conversations.




That's Blake, Emile and Noah and here's their blog site: www.wrfi.net/cycletherockies.

Product Recommendation: I had some chafing yesterday. Today I used some Button Hole. I was comfortable all day long.

Tomorrow the road levels and I'm hoping for a tailwind. I need to get some miles in.




- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:East Glacier

Thursday, June 9, 2011

A Fine Day

Yesterday started in the rain and the rain continued throughout the morning and early afternoon. At about 3 p.m., I rolled into Eureka and was ready for something with a solid roof. The one motel looked pretty shabby, but there was a B&B that was very nice. Yup, expensive, but considering that my last 3 nights camping cost me a total of $24, I figured the average would be OK.



This is the upstairs hallway of the Pruett House.

I finally had an appetite and enjoyed a 12" pizza by myself. At the pizza shop I met 91 year old Winston and we talked a bit about the economy. He said this economy was a lot like the great depression. He pointed out that while the percentage of unemployed is much lower now, the absolute numbers may be pretty close.

Joan Pruett made a great breakfast this morning and I left at about 9 a.m.


Having some nutrition makes for a much more pleasant ride. Skies were partly cloudy, but temps were cool and winds light.

A few miles into the ride I noticed some grinding noises. I pulled over and nothing was out of line, but the chain was pretty nasty. I had picked up lots of sand riding in the rain the previous day. I thorough cleaning and re-oiling cured the grinding. I should have checked the drivetrain before I left.

80 miles today and I'm at the Lake Five resort. If the weather is good tomorrow and I can find some trunks, I'm going for a swim.


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Feeling a Little Bit Better

I spent a very restful night on the shore of Bull Lake and woke up to low clouds and still air. It had rained a little the previous night, but it warm and I was ready to get back on the road.



Before leaving, I spent a little time with my hosts, Jerry and Margaret. It turns out they have Kentucky and California connections too. Jerry's great grandfather was an editor for the Louisville newspaper in the 1800's. Jerry and Margaret lived and worked in N. California before retiring to MT.

Though feeling better, I still wasn't able to take in much food. A stop at Henry's restaurant in Libby for some turkey rice soup and peppermint tea provided some much needed energy.

I spent the night at a fishing resort just North of the Libby Dam.

At the resort, I met James, who has turned his passion for rock and mountain climbing into a profession. He and a partner were working at the Libby Dam, using their mountain climbing skills and equipment to help engineers inspect the 400 foot high exterior of the dam.

It rained hard last night and its raining now. I'll reluctant to start riding in the rain, but forecast calls for much of the same for the next few days.

Note to Bob M: You'd love this place; they've pulled out trout as big as 12 lbs.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:6 Miles North of Libby Dam, MT

86 the Potato Salad

I left Sandpoint on Sunday, expecting a short, uneventful 45 mile ride. Many riders take 1 day per week off and I figured that a half-day would be enough of a break for me.

I took my time, as the road followed the outline of Lake Pend Oreille.



I even managed to spot a group of butterflies stopped in a rest area, enjoying the warmth of the sun.



I stopped in Clark Fork at a grocery store for a late lunch. (Of course you're going to stop for a meal when the town's name includes "Fork.")

About 10 miles further down the road, I started feeling tired and decided I had made a good decision not to ride the full day. I pulled into a campsite and progressively felt worse and worse. Within an hour I knew I had eaten some tainted food; probably the potato salad. Last night was one of the most unpleasant nights I've had in years, on or off a bike.

I got up and the worst of the symptoms had passed, but I felt totally exhausted. Nevertheless, I thought I could ride at least a few miles. Twenty miles down the road, I had had enough. The map showed a campground on Bull Lake, but it was closed. I backtracked a bit, remembering a sign for another campground. Up ahead, a woman was getting her mail and I stopped to ask for directions. She did one better; she said I could camp on her property by the lake.

So that's where I am right now. I'm still somewhat weak and food is not sitting very well. I'll try to get in 40-50 miles tomorrow.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Bull Lake, MT

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Bullwinkle, no Rocky

I was just a mile down the road yesterday, on hiway 20, when up ahead a moose walked onto the road. She was nice enough to wait patiently while I got out my camera and set it up for the shot.





I waited a bit longer, but never did see the flying squirrel.

Friday's ride started in Republic, WA. I camped in a city park and before climbing the Sherman pass, I had breakfast and met a truck driver who was working for gold mine outside of Republic. With the slowdown in the logging industry, the entire area is happy to have the work associated with the mining operation. He was hauling waste water and when this job was done he was going to N. Dakota to again haul waste water, but this time for the oil fields.

Once again, it was a slow ride up the mountain pass and a chilly ride down. Then it was another 1500 feet of climb East of Kettle Falls. This part of hiway 20 had very little traffic and wide shoulders, allowing me to spend more time enjoying the scenery. I called it a day after 80 miles and camped along a lake fed by the Pend Oreille River.




The chirping of birds is my wake-up call when camping. The sun was up, but had not yet warmed the air.



I waited for things to warm up a bit and then was on my way once again. About 20 miles down the road, I met 4 riders who were also riding the Northern Tier. Regan and his two sons, Jake and Logan, and their friend Chris Hassan are riding to raise money for AT (ataxia-telangiectasia) disease research. They are from Stevens Point, WI, but like me they started in Washington and plan to ride to Maine.



We rode together the entire day and it was nice to have conversation, share the uphill struggles, and exhilaration of a 30 mph downhill coast.

The route was fairly level and so the miles went by quickly. Regan and his team decided to camp, while I continued on to Sandpoint, ID. I needed a comfortable bed and a chance to recharge the electronics.

For day I put on 102 miles and the week total was about 520 miles.

Sandpoint is a beautiful resort community on Lake Pend Oreille. I'm going to stay here a few hours and explore before hitting the road again. It'll be a short recovery ride today.

Note to Ken and Jim: The Adventure Cycling route would be great on a MC too (other than the bike paths.)

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Sandpoint, ID